Holy Week is in full swing here in the holiest of Holy Week spots. We knew it but had not imagined the enormity of the celebration. The Fiat we rented got us into the centre of town, a 10 minute walk on a normal day from lot to hotel. 7 hours of dodging babies in strollers, grandmothers in wheel chairs, pull-in-your-side-mirrors ‘kissing lanes’, kind offers of driving directions, ‘IMPOSSIBLE!!’ hand gestures, and finally a police escort, we parked and walked with bags in hand, amidst crushing crowds to El Rey Moro Hotel.

Semano Santo is something to behold. 2 ton floats carried, yes, carried on the backs of their necks, men rock the massive structure depicting one aspect of Jesus’ passion, for 20 minutes, then a shift change and another group of penitentials takes over. We saw their feet shuffle by underneath the skirting. Today we came across several men with bandages just below their back hairline.
Drumming bands, children in costume, pointy-headed candle-carrying processioners and thousands upon thousands of Sevillians remember Easter this way. Apparently, the hype builds until Sunday. I am not sure how we’ll make our get-away on Good Friday so stay tuned.