On the Other Side

It took 10 minutes to drive beyond manicured gardens, snaking tour buses and the bustle of the city to a stark and desert land of Bedouin shepherds and rubbled landscape where we discovered a Greek Orthodox monastery and a hillside dotted with black iron crosses. What was once thought to be Elijah’s cave serves Christian pilgrims and contemporary desert fathers as a place of solitude and devotion. The viewpoint, a camel stop, also serves as a market for two young Bedouins trying to make a buck.

Away from the tourist mobs, we ventured into the West Bank with a friend and saw firsthand what life in the Palestinian territories looks like. We are beginning to recognize architectural differences and spoke with a woman who writes for Reuters about the challenges of reporting in a primarily digital age. Her fiancé, an Australian reporter for Al-Jazeera, said he intends to settle their family near Bethlehem in Arab occupied land once they marry. It’s hard to appreciate the challenges they will face in raising a family here.

The Gourmet Grotto is a family-run ethnic eatery near Shepherd’s Field in Bethlehem.  We sat on low Arab embroidered couches as a collection of dips, sauces and and salads arrived at the table. Humus, Baba Ganoush, spicy shredded carrot salad, corn salad, tzatziki and a dozen other dishes followed by grilled lamb, chicken and beef became the focal point as we passed the plates and ate.

Back inside the air conditioned Texas-imported Suburban, the narrow streets lead us to the Church of the Nativity. Built, or at least commissioned by Constantine’s mother, Helena, in 4th Century Byzantinium the church property serves both the Greek Orthodox and Catholic communities. The building itself is the oldest consistently used church in the world. Worshippers have come here every week since 400 C.E.

Next stop, the gelato shop!

Our friends arranged a sitter for the kids and we climbed back in the car, breezed through the checkpoints and arrived back at the guesthouse safe and sound. They carried on for a romantic and well-deserved dinner out.