Nova Scotia, Canada’s Ocean Playground

Tonight is Yahtzee night but I thought I would write just a bit to keep you updated on our travels first.

PEI has held us in its spell for a whole week and we were in no hurry to leave, however, Newfoundland calls and we have a date with the “Nfld” ferry on Friday so off we go. Wind gusts impeded overheight traffic on the Confederation Bridge yesterday and we weren’t sure if the ferry from PEI to Nova Scotia would even be running. Thankfully, it was and we arrived a little early so took a tour of the Wood Islands Lighthouse, which is settling into a new spot after soil erosion forced a move away from the cliff side.

Before I take you from PEI, I have one last story. On the Murray River/Montague side of the island, some call it the eastern shore, the pace is even slower and we found a lovely old home that doubles as a B&B and decided to treat ourselves. Richard Knox grew up in the house and now his wife, Janet, serves travelers who are looking for the quietude of country charm. The house was built for the nearby power station’s caretaker, who happened to be Richard’s father. When the power house went out of service the family bought the home, undertaking its restoration so as to make it more comfortable and grow a family there. We found not only rest for our bodies but also rest for our travel weary spirits as Janet saw to every detail with her gift of gracious hospitality.

The ferry from Wood Islands to New Glasgow takes about 75 minutes and is contracted to transport all sorts of cargo including these pretty pink pigs going off to market. My attempt at photographing one fat fellow who kept sticking his head out of the grating failed as he seemed terrified in every respect. Poor thing seemed to know his was a one way ticket and protested persistently.

Have you heard the Gaelic lilt of a Cape Breton Islander? The voice is similar, in my ears at least, to the PE Islander and every bit as charming. Celtic tradition is strong in these parts and the music seems to seep out of the stones. We found a place named the Red Shoe Pub and it’s owned and run by the Rankin sisters (quite famous, I’m told) where there’s a fresh catch every supper along with live homespun music. Last night halibut was on the menu with local asparagus, fingerling potatoes and a heaping helping of fiddle and keyboard on the side. Working off dinner meant a meander along the shores of Cape Hood’s silky sand beaches until the sun set on our sleepy heads.

Next morning, we left ourselves lots of time to take the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island before our 6 hour boat ride to Newfoundland tomorrow so spent most of the day driving the coast. Road signs are posted in both English and Gaelic and it’s not for the benefit of tourists. We stopped in at the Bear Paw Gift Shop in Inverness and the woman at the till welcomed a friend in Gaelic. Acadian culture is also strong here as folks fly the Acadian flag (blue, white and red with a single gold star) and often display a star beside the front door of homes and businesses. My plan is to share some personal findings on Acadian history before long.