Last time I gave you a little test to see how Newfie you were and have since learned that there is an official Newfie initiation. It involves a pub, a shot of rum, a crowd of locals, the repeating of an unpronounceable verse and the kissing of a cod fish. If you have had an experience that includes all these things, you know what it is to be “screeched” in. The custom is based on a 1940’s rite of passage for rookie seal hunters and it’s now popular with tourists. So, if you really want to be considered a Newfoundlander, that’s the deal.
Speaking of verse and thinking about the melodious, do you remember the old song, “T
his land is your land, this land is my land…”? Today we stood at the edge of Bonavista’s cliffs at the spot where John Cabot landed in 1497 and exclaimed, “Oh, happy site!” I stood on the very same site and sang, “from Bonavista to Vancouver Island. This land was made for you and me!”
And now for more Newfoundland trivia:
In 1904 four lowly moose were introduced into the wilds of Newfoundland and today there are more than 120,000. Happy times for the moose! They love the salty residue on the roadside greens left from the winter de-icing regimen so are a real hazard to driving especially at night. One bold female leapt out in front of us on the Trans-Canada Highway, flailing her gangly legs under her top-heavy torso. A moose is a rather unfortunate looking creature and reminds me of a giraffe without the neck or spots. On the bright side, the meat is delicious and adds to local fare. Thankfully, we cannot be accused of road kill, at least not on this day. Speaking of road kill, however, we are guilty of contributing to the demise of two birds and two squirrels. The little thumps under the wheels were quite distressing.
While on the subject of wildlife, this is also the place where caribou roam, the Newfoundland pony is protected and runs wild, coyotes keep a low profile to avoid the $25 bounty on their heads, and polar bears make an occasion appearance on the north shore.
On the economic side of things, a young woman told a couple of fellow travelers that she just bought a two storey house, almost new, for $8,000. We have heard it said that you can live the same quality of life for $50,000 in Newfoundland that you could for $150,000 in Alberta. The trouble is, you’ve got to live in Newfoundland; not a popular prospect with the up and coming crowd. As a matter of fact, the province has a terrible time keeping residents on the rock year ‘round.
Churches abound here. In a community of 250 you will typically see three or four churches: the grand ones are Roman Catholic, Anglican and Pentecostal, while the simpler one is Brethren. The older locals remark that churches are not as full as they once were and attribute that to the ease of contemporary life. The need for consolation and comfort is not felt as profoundly as it once was or solace is found elsewhere.
Remembering that Newfoundland did not come into confederation until 1949 helps me understand the common reference to the rest of Canada as Canada and in which Newfoundland is not a part. Does that sound confusing? We hear people referring to the continental part of Canada by that name but the reference does not include this rock. The corporate mind of Newfoundlanders carries a connection to a national past and the nation is not Canada but Newfoundland. It’s a subtle reference but consistent and rooted in relatively recent self-governance and independence. Who knows what would have happened if economic strife hadn’t cause the collapse of Newfoundland’s political institution in the 40’s.
That’s enough trivia for one day so as the sun sets on St. John’s and we snuggle in for the night we find ourselves once again marveling at this land we know as Canada.
We want to send our love and congratulations to parents Chris and Shannon and little baby Gabriella Sharon who arrived safely on Friday evening. We are so happy for you and look forward to cradling this precious little one in our arms upon our return!
